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Because of work needs, I often come into contact with kitchen utensils and chefs. Some questions have not been answered. Why do the same ingredients, the same condiments, and the same chef taste differently? Why is the use of cast-iron cooking utensils for cooking, rice cooking, and soup cooking better in taste and taste than other kitchen utensils? Such experiences and experiences are almost everyone's, but the mysteries are hard to say.
Recently, I had the opportunity to have dinner with an old-school chef, Master Wang, so that my years of doubts were relieved. Master Wang is 65 years old. He started to learn cooking in his teens. From apprentice to chef to executive chef, he retired gloriously. In the past 50 years as a chef, I have traveled to less than half of China. I have done Cantonese cuisine in Guangdong, Shandong cuisine in Shandong, Sichuan cuisine in Sichuan, and Hangzhou cuisine in Zhejiang ... the essence of the major cuisines, and technical skills.
In Master Wang's eyes, whether a dish is unpopular, whether it is qualified or delicious, depends on how much "pot gas" it has. The so-called pot gas, of course, is not the temperament of a handsome pot, it should be a combination of momentum, smell, color and temperament. The so-called momentum is that the dishes come out of the pan, it must be hot, the smoke is diffuse, and people's eyes should be bright; the visual enjoyment of a dish; the so-called temperament is our enjoyment of the taste of the dish.
The cooker gas focuses on the three cores of "hot fire, stir-fry, and scorch". "Hot, fast, dry, and fragrant" are the constituent elements of the cooker gas, which cannot be released without any one. The requirements for the dishes to be served are dry and fragrant. The standard is to have juice without seeing the juice, to have the sauce but not to see the sauce, and to have the oil but not the oil.
In order to fully understand and feel the pot gas, in addition to the accumulated experience, you also need to fully grasp the characteristics of the ingredients and kitchen utensils, in order to achieve a full pot of gas, a house full of fragrance.
Most foods contain sugar, amino, carbonyl and other compounds. By heating, the carbohydrate raw materials undergo a "caramelization reaction"; amino, carbonyl and other compounds undergo a "Maillard reaction". It is only possible to produce these two reactions under different temperature ranges and corresponding conditions, because Maillard reactions can occur at 20 ° C, and the aroma of food must be in the condition of 10% -15% of its water content Can only be generated. When the temperature rises to 180 ° C, the aroma becomes dull and the color becomes darker. The caramelization reaction occurs at 140 ° C, and then two products are produced: caramel and aromatic ketone. When the temperature rises to 230 ° C, the two products change from fragrant to bitter, and the color of the food will also deepen. Therefore, a good master will skillfully use the characteristics of the cast-iron pot, coupled with the chef's stir-fry technique, to obtain two conditions for the food. Under the premise that the aroma is not dull, the taste is not bitter, and the color is not brown, if two more materials are added to assist: garlic and Cooking wine (garlic is rich in amino and carbonyl compounds without sweet taste, while cooking wine is rich in Sweet sugar compounds), it will make the product more fragrant and abnormally colored. Of course, the order of the effects of the main ingredients and auxiliary materials is also particular. "Meng Guo Yin You" means hot pan cold oil, which is to allow garlic sufficient time to perform Maillard reaction. After the oil is cooked (or the temperature rises too fast) adding garlic will not only produce aroma, but garlic will also be bitter. When the garlic turns golden brown, add the raw materials, and then pour in the cooking wine (adjust the taste of the main ingredients and add sugar), so that the caramel reaction is more likely to occur in the pot. The next step is to quickly fry the moisture of the dried raw materials at the temperatures required by the two reactions, so that the surface of the raw materials evenly contacts the heat source, thereby giving the dish a "soul".
The magic weapon that Master Wang's superb skills can be exerted is the cast iron pot that his master sent him. He has been with him for more than 40 years. According to Master Wang, although there are many choices of pots, non-stick, stainless and hot spots, old-fashioned professional chefs still love old-fashioned cast-iron pots, and only old-fashioned cast-iron pots can bring the chef's skills to the extreme.
Behind the production of "pot gas" is the perfect temperature control of cast iron pots for three reasons.
First, in the physical structure of the cast iron cookware, carbon atoms and iron atoms are combined in a honeycomb structure, which makes the energy transmission play a role of energy storage and slow release, and the temperature is more stable and durable. Second, compared with other materials, cast iron cookware has different heating principles. The emissivity of stainless steel and aluminum materials is 0.07, and heating of food is a direct conduction of heat; while the cast iron cookware has an emissivity of 0.64, which can also function as a microwave oven in addition to direct heating. Avoid unfamiliarity between cooked and cooked during the frying period. Third, the casting process, the traditional old-fashioned cast-iron pot uses the gravity casting process. The pot body is thick, the heat conduction and energy storage effect is good, and the temperature of each part of the pot body is balanced. It is precisely for the above reasons that cast iron pots have unparalleled advantages in temperature uniformity, durability, and heating methods.
Feeding into the pot, the cast iron pot will not cause sticky pans due to the rapid temperature drop of the pot due to the low temperature of the ingredients, and it will not cause inconsistent degrees of cooked ingredients due to the inconsistent temperature of the bottom and the wall of the pot. Coupled with the comprehensive application of the large pan turning technology such as “push, pull, flip, and send” by the chef, the direct contact between the pot body and the ingredients can instantly lock the moisture of the ingredients; microwave heating can quickly mature the interior of the ingredients, thereby achieving Out-of-focus renin effect. Shunde's famous gold dish "Little Fried Emperor" is an example. It is raging on the offensive. From side dishes to finished dishes and then sent to the table, it takes only 3 minutes before and after, the pot is full of gas! The combination of the cast-iron pot and the skill of the chef guarantees the "high flame, stir-fried, and charred incense of "pot gas", and the characteristics of "hot, fast, dry, and fragrant" are vividly displayed.
Delicious food need to be “inspired” and “inherited” by pot gas, and “pot gas” is like the soul of a dish. It is a perfect combination of ingredients, kitchenware, and chef skills. Although Master Wang is over sixty years old, his temperament is extraordinary. He has experienced the essence and charm of Chinese cuisine during his nearly 50 years of professional career. While passing on his skills, he also makes more diners feel the heritage The beauty of traditional Chinese cooking utensils.
